MXL V67g Headbasket Mod
The Headbasket Mod, basically, involves removing the inner mesh linings of the headbasket, leaving just the outer mesh. This is fairly easy, once you get over being nervous that you are going to damage the outer mesh. This mod opens up the headbasket considerably, and seems to be commonally recognised as a worthwhile mod. One disadvantage to this mod is that it removes some protection for the capsule, but if you are willing to treat you mics carefully, and protect them with a pop guard when using them with vocals, the improvement is worth it, in my opinion.
The first step is to remove the body in order to get at the screws that hold the headbasket to the top plate which is located just above the circuit boards. Unscrew the base, and slide off the body. Looking under the plate that the headbasket is attached to, you will find two screws that attach the headbasket to the plate above the circuit boards. There will be 2 of these screws.
Once the headbasket has been removed, I have found that an ice pick or awl works nicely to peel the inner two meshes away from the outer mesh at the rim so you can then grab them with a pair of healthy needle nose pliers. Just pick at a spot until you can work the awl in under the two inner meshes, and pry firmly, but carefully.
Once you have a hole in the inner meshes, you can then get your needle nose pliers in the hole, grab the mesh, and pull. After doing a few of these, you will find what works best for you. I find I often twirl the pliers to get the mesh wrapped around the nose, which then allows me to pry and pull with a good grip.
Work your way around the rim first, then down the two side supports.
When the cross bar at the top of the headbasket is the last spot holding the mesh, I again find that grabbing the mesh and twirling the pliers will pull the mesh off of the cross bar until it is just being held at the very center, at which point you should be able to give a good yank to pull it the rest of the way off. Be sure to clean out any stray single strands that may be still attached to the frame, as these could potentially puncture the capsule!
At this point, the headbasket should be set. Once the mic is reassembled, you will be able to see how much more open the headbasket is now.
