New Bottom and Top
The top cab now needs a new bottom, and the bottom cab needs a new top. We made these out of pine, to match the rest of the cabs. Both the top and bottom cabs retain the original baffle board pieces. The bottom speaker cab use the original cutouts for four 10" speakers. The top ended up with half speaker cutouts at the bottom of the baffle board, which allow some venting through the grill cloth for the tubes.
We had some somewhat weathered 1"x4" boards sitting around, so we decided to edge glue them up to use for the new bottom of the top cab, and top of the bottom cab. We used our biscuit jointer and glued up three 27" long pieces for each new piece. These retained a bit of weathered look to match the rest of the cab.
Edge glued boards for bottom and top pieces
While the glue was drying, we decided to try to cut down the old Vox Super Beatle stand we had, to see if it would work as a stand for the Super 6 (see next section for this). We had a Super Beatle head along with this stand years ago - never actually had the speaker cab for it, though, and the head is long gone... We left the bottom and top pieces of the cab to dry, and attacked the old stand with a hack saw.
Once the glue dried, we sanded off the excess glue with a belt sander (while trying to keep some of the natural aged color of the boards), cut them to the right length, and ripped them to their respective proper widths to match the original cab pieces.
Mock up
We decided to re-glue the original top cab pieces together without the new bottom to begin with, in order to make the process manageable (we need more clamps!). As you can see in the above mock up, we are reusing the original top piece of the baffle board for the front of the head cab. Since the chassis is bolted to the top board, these buscuited butt joints don't really carry much weight, other than the reverb pan.
Gluing the top cab original pieces back together
We then used a router to route a slot in the new top of the speaker cab that the baffle board will fit up into it, and glued the new top piece to the speaker cab. The top joints at the ends are not rabbeted out like the original top, so there was enough thickness to allow the use of the biscuit joiner for these joints, so they should be pretty strong. If we go with a handle on the top of the speaker cab, these joints will be supporting some weight (see note above about this), though the baffle board being glued into the slot in the top piece will also help.
Gluing the new top on to the speaker cab
Once the glue dried on the amp cab, we glued the new bottom on it. We used the biscuit joiner for this piece as well.
Gluing the new bottom on to the amplifier cab
While waiting for this to dry, we moved on to cutting down the old Vox Super Beatle stand to the appropriate height for the new cab sizes...